Since Christmas, I have been tasting samples of new wines and estates, ones that the Winehog has never tasted before. It is an exciting endeavour. and it’s yielding some disappointments, some expected results, and some very pleasant surprises.
One of the pleasant surprises is Domaine Marcel Brubach, an estate in Solutré-Pouilly in the northern part of Pouillly-Fuisse appellation.
Marcel is a relatively young vigneron, and was a stagiaire (apprentice) with the Bret brothers in Vinzelles – a mark of quality in the Winehog’s little black book, or at least on the IPad.
Originally from Alsace, Marcel Brubach has worked on many estates in the Mâconnais and Beaujolais. He created his own domaine in 2016 with one hectare of vines and very little equipment, initially selling only part of his harvest in bottles. In 2018, the estate expanded by 4 hectares, and today the winery today produces 4,000 bottles a year of wine from the Mâcon-Solutré and Pouilly-Fuissé appellations.
I had the opportunity to taste two 2019s: Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes and Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru (from 2020) Les Crays.
Aside from these two, Brubach also produces Mâcon-Solutré “Les Condemines.”
Poully-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes (Les Diablotins) 2019
Richer, slightly riper and more opulent than Les Crays, the more mature, somewhat yellower fruit still gives a lovely feel. There is a clear mineral character, but this is nonetheless a lesser wine than the 1er cru. For slightly richer food perhaps; it worked well with a lobster bisque.
(Drink from 2021) – Good++ – Tasted 30/12/2020 – 😄
Domaine Marcel Brubach Pouilly-Fuissé (1er Cru) Les Crays 2019
This is fresh and energetic, with an airy, mineral-driven nose of almost flinty crushed stones. It has a delightful, medium-weight palate, and is vivacious and not too hot at 13% alcohol. The wine is balanced, and remains so even as the temperature in the glass increases. On the palate, there is white peach, a bit of apple, and a chalky finish. Refined and 100% pure, this is great Pouilly-Fuissé. More please!
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 30/12/2020 –
Here I’ve given both smileys and hearts. Overall, these wines are clearly recommended, with the 1er cru earning the strongest plaudit. It is indeed a very enjoyable wine.