I don’t know Elodie Roy particularly well, and nonetheless she has been with The Winehog -sort of – for more than eight years, since my first visit to Domaine Anne Gros in 2012.
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The tasting at Anne Gros was (back then) conducted by a seemingly very hard-working and quite serious Elodie Roy. This was my first encounter with her, and now almost ten years later I meet Elodie again, in the shape of her lovely 2019s.
So, for a bit more…
Let’s start with the Maranges background
Elodie Roy took over her family’s estate quite recently: 2018 was her first vintage as winemaker. She was 38 when she decided to return to the family estate, in Cheilly-lès-Maranges, south of Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay and the southernmost point in the Cote de Beaune. Domaine Elodie Roy has 9 hectares of vines, 7.8 ha of pinot noir and 1.2 ha of chardonnay.
Elodie’s wines originate from her parent’s estate in Maranges, but she has found inspiration from numerous areas – the Cote de Nuits, Languedoc, and Beaujolais, amongst others. Perhaps it’s just me, but I see a reference to Anne Gros here.
The inspiration and the 2019s
Elodie Roy clearly has what I would call a strong Cote de Nuits inspiration, or even influence. She uses perhaps slightly more new oak than the average Maranges producer, and the wines are more refined and polished than those from her peers in these appellations.
The reds are very well made, with lovely, juicy energy. They are wines that will delight the typical Côte de Nuits drinker with their well-produced and refined expression.
One gets a lovely expression of the individual terroirs, and at the same time a fine but clear expression of style coming from the Damy oak and the use of 30-40% whole-cluster grapes in most wines.
They are elegant, tasty, and with lovely energy (in the 2019 vintage at least). These are well- and carefully made wines, reflecting the fact that Elodie is an experienced winemaker who knows what she wants.
The lesser wines have a stronger vigneronne reference, while the Santenay Gravieres is beautifully balanced already. This is a question of balance and taste, but for my money, Elodie is bringing refinement to her Maranges by giving them a bit of oak and a modest SO2 dose – around 20 ppm of free sulphur.
These are clearly not hippie wines (natural-ish), but rather refined and polished modern wines, enjoyable and juicy.
To the tasting!
Domaine Elodie Roy Bourgogne Rouge 2019
Forward fresh cherries, raspberries and cherry stones; this is lovely, with fine acidity and liveliness. There is a slight metallic note in the mid-palate and after, but the dominant feature is the vivid energy of 2019 and that vintage’s core charm. A slight initial reduction disappears after 20 minutes or so as the fruit expands and gets a mild yellow tone (Nordic berries) with a slight hint of stems from the whole clusters. The metallic/stony note is gone after half an hour. A nice everyday Burgundy, and I like its attitude.
(Drink from 2021) – Good – Tasted 21/12/2020 – 😁
Domaine Elodie Roy Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2019
Rather alcoholic in both bouquet and on the palate (14.5% on the label; around 14.25% from the analysis), to be fair, fruit-wise this is quite pure. For me, the impression of the alcohol is a bit too dominant for the modest terroir. A bit lower yield could also have given the wine more generous mid-palate fruit. This could, however, work with a robust, spicy dish; but not my favourite in this line-up.
(Drink from 2021) – Average – Tasted 21/12/2020
Domaine Elodie Roy Maranges La Rue des Pierres 2019
Oak on the nose, and whole-cluster vinification. This shows vivid, energetic fruit with a red/yellow nuance, positive energy and pure 2019 acidity. The fruit really is delightful, although perhaps a bit short. Slightly astringent, with juicy blackberries, Kirsch, amaretto sweetness and boysenberries – delightfully fruity. Quite a joyful wine.
(Drink from 2021) – Good+ – Tasted 21/12/2020 – 😄
Domaine Elodie Roy Santenay Les Gravieres 2019
Rich fruit with an energetic mid-palate, a slight note of curry in the bouquet, and salinity. This is rather opulent, and very tasty with its whole-cluster character. Richly charming with vivid lingonberries, a hint of cloudberries and even boysenberries. Polished and very inviting for a Santenay Gravieres, with a hint of Vosne styling perhaps, this is drinking very well indeed. My personal favourite from the line-up.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 21/12/2020 –
Domaine Elodie Roy Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc 2019
Also rather alcoholic in both bouquet and palate, yet the fruit is again pure. For me, the impression of alcohol dominates the terroir. This vineyard had frost in spring 2019, and this could explain the issue. That said, this would work well with a spicy dish – chili-infused shellfish or spicy chicken, where the alcohol has a role to play.
(Drink from 2021) – Above Average – Tasted 21/12/2020
Domaine Elodie Roy Maranges Blanc En Buliet 2019
The Maranges Blanc is also on the quite powerful side: 14.3% (14.5% on the label). This is significantly better balanced than the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, as the wine is both more mineral and bigger fruit-wise. It has a fine, pure, fruit aroma with a slightly reduced, grapey note. Again a somewhat spicy dish could be the ideal match for its cool Maranges character.
(Drink from 2021) – Above Average – Tasted 21/12/2020
Elodie Roy had a slightly bumpy ride in 2019, as the Hautes Côtes de Beaune wines are somewhat on the generous side alcohol-wise. This is what happens from time to time when vineyards are hit by frost.
What’s more important is the Santenay Les Gravieres 2019, as this shows the fine potential at Domaine Elodie Roy – as do the Bourgogne Rouge and the red Maranges.
The Elodie Roy wines were delivered by the Danish importer Fine-Wine